Te Tiibuta ("see-boota") and what it means to me

~Te Tiibuta and what it means to me~

By Vicki Ryan

I have worn tiibuta for as long as I can remember ~ my mum had several different ones – I saw her use them as general day-to-day-wear. To me she viewed them as comfortable and practical, they felt like her natural style. Useful around home and also acceptable in public. (she often did not have a bra on underneath but that was not evident - not an accident in the original design)

Mum and Dad in the 70’s, mum in one of her many tiibuta. The tiibuta has a distinctive look - wide bands fitted over the shoulders and a squared scoop neck. It is gathered at the chest to puff forward with plenty of space to not ‘cling’. The front chest and shoulder area is where creativity and individuality is expressed, from puckered patterns of smocking detail, or embroidery, detailed trim, to the names of places or loved ones stitched on.

There is a strong Kiribati community in the Solomons where we lived for five years, and I remember the other Kiribati women wearing tiibuta.  It made it easy to identify them at the market or wherever. It meant these were ‘our people’, and definitely approachable. As a people relocated to the Solomon Islands when their original island became uninhabitable (that’s another story) by retaining te tiibuta , the Kiribati diaspora in the Solomons also unknowingly retained a cultural icon, maintaining the collective, oneness and identity in a new home.

Three women, 1973; two in tiibuta. If we ever wondered if someone were from Kiribati - the tiibuta removed all doubt.

When I first visited Kiribati for Christmas in 1983, my tiibuta connected me to my relations there, it drew attention to the fact that “we belonged”.

Two of my mum’s sisters Teetang and Orem in the orange/red tiibuta respectively, and two of her brothers Erona and Tionatan at the back.  The ataei n aine (young woman) in the yellow was another relative.  Sister Emma, cousin Teimira and me.  Abemama island Christmas 1982

I remember this (above) red tiibuta used to constantly attract comments “ngke kain Onotoa?” – “are you from Onotoa?” – apparently the tiibuta in Onotoa had this type of trim and pleats, vs the gathered and smocked with the ‘squiggle trim’ which was most common.  I would reply “tiaki, bwa ngai kain Tabiteuea, Nikunau ao Arorae!” – “no, I’m from Tabiteuea, Nikunau and Arorae!” – to which they would repeat that I had an Onotoa tiibuta on and so on… This affectionate banter actually reinforced identity and loyalty for me as a child - “you can see I am clearly te i-Kiribati, yes I’m wearing this for fun, but I am not from here, I am from there!”. I liked wearing this unique tiibuta for this reason of being a conversation starter - though I do recall it dug into my armpits and was rather uncomfortable!!

Having a meal with some friends and family in our grandpa’s maneaba where he was posted as a pastor for a number of years, Abemama, Kiribati.

Emma and I both had the Onotoa-style tiibuta. Here we are on a boat in Kiribati.  Dad standing, me next to mum. My sister and I were five & eight years old here. The crocheted petti-coat worn as a skirt was also a common fixture.

As a teenager I learnt from my father that the tiibuta was introduced by the missionaries to cover up the local women who were topless.  As bras were not a readily available item, the tiibuta was designed (or so dad told me!) specifically to make the breasts shape and nipples become a) covered and b) concealed of definition , and hence able to bring “modesty” to these people and be worn by women who didn’t own bras.  Here are my aunty Kiantaake and my granny Teiro doing a task on te inaai (coconut palm frond mat).  Granny is wearing a tiibuta here but I often saw her going about topless.  She was born in 1926 and was very traditional.

Aunty Kiantaake and Granny Teiro, and teteei (a baby who will now be around 40 yrs!)

Fast forward a few years… I am a mother of four now, but this was when I had just my two girls.  My mum was a seamstress and one afternoon she whipped together a purple tiibuta for me, and two tiibuta-type tops for my daughters.  We loved them!  We took them to Kiribati when we visited in 2005.  I still have this purple tiibuta but it is thin and I use it as a pyjama top. The girls tops have similar features, with the gathered chest front.

With my mum, Babera; my granny, Teiro and my two daughters, Eden and Summer.  Taken at Tabon Tawaana, Bonriki, Tarawa, July 2005

My sister and I were given two beautiful ‘Mauri-wear’ tiibuta by our brother’s wife’s family – bringing our style into the 21st century!!  We love these too; though they have sleeves and a higher neckline, they somehow seem more fitted/flattering? Maybe hiding those arms, hee hee :)

With my sister Emma (right) at our Kiribati Cultural camp, January 2022.  These mauri-wear tiibuta are exactly the same but (woops!) I accidentally put mine on backwards.  Showing my age, haha!

Sister and me a few decades earlier in another pair of matching tiibuta, leaving Kiribati from Bonriki Airport, Tarawa in the 1980’s.

I was beyond thrilled when in 2021, I was helping my friend Maria pack up for moving and I found an old abandoned tiibuta under her stairs.  I asked her if I could wear it to the upcoming independence celebrations – and I was so happy when she said I could keep it!  Then I was blown away when as we continued pulling out and packing, she pulled out another and added it to my bag, and then another…! I ended up with twelve tiibuta!! (she was still left with plenty more!).  It was so exciting.

Tiibuta kindly gifted by my friend Maria. Pleated, smocked, embroidered, variations on fabric, colour and sleeve design, and all special. I shared with sister Emma and daughter Eden.  Can’t describe how much I loved receiving this beautiful collection, from none to twelve in one afternoon!!??

The following weekend was the kainaomata (the independence celebrations) in South Auckland, so my sister and daughter joined me for it and we wore a tiibuta each to the celebration.  It was ideal - unassuming, yet formal-feeling, ‘traditional’…just appropriate in every way.  It helped us feel like we really were part of it.  And as they were the older style, we felt like the ‘real deal’ original Kiribati girls.

Me, Eden, sister in-law Melina and Emma at te kainaomata, July 2021

Melina’s family are the ones who gave us the mauri-wear tiibuta, plus the indigo one pictured below.  So from having many tiibuta growing up, to having none, I now have several in different colours, old and new - to wear, for example - to our cultural camp we have held in January the past two years running.  Or to special cultural events (or regular days) at Auckland University where I am studying.  Or around the house.  Anytime!

With my eldest, Eden - at our Kiribati Cultural Camp, Papamoa

So that is what te tiibuta means to me – it’s my formal/casual/wear-with-anything/everyday/special top that links me to Kiribati.  Whilst textiles and garments in the western sense were introduced to Kiribati, the tiibuta pre-dates mine and my mother’s time and has been metaphorically sewn into the fabric of the Kiribati culture and lifestyle.  It is decorated, smocked, embroidered and embossed in various creative ways, and worn with pride by countless Kiribati women and girls. Adopted as ‘ours’, it has become nationally symbolic of our identity. The wonderful yet casual, versatile and practical, modest and still feminine - special tiibuta - uniquely recognizable and synonymous with being an i-Kiribati. When we see the tiibuta - we see home, we see family. This simple garment instantly connects and unites the diaspora around the globe, bringing a bit of Kiribati to wherever we may be.

Vicki Kabwe Ryan